Nature & Travel

The mystical peak of the Świętokrzyskie Mountains

Centuries ago, it was one of the most important centers of the religious cult of the Slavs, and rumor has it, witchcraft. Paweł Cieśla via Wikimedia Commons
Centuries ago, it was one of the most important centers of the religious cult of the Slavs, and rumor has it, witchcraft. Paweł Cieśla via Wikimedia Commons
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This week, TVP World’s Michał Zdanowski sets out on an unforgettable adventure to one of Poland’s most enigmatic peaks—a place where history, myth, and nature collide in breathtaking fashion.

Łysa Góra, the second-highest peak in the Świętokrzyskie Mountains, has long been shrouded in mystery and legend.

Once a sacred hub of Slavic pagan rituals—and, if rumors are to be believed, a witches’ gathering ground—this mountain has seen centuries of transformation.

From an ancient religious site to a revered Benedictine monastery, its storied past beckons modern travelers to uncover its secrets.
Shrouded in an aura of mystery, the second highest peak in the Świętokrzyskie Mountains stands gentle and proud above the landscape. Photo: Yayek via Wikimedia Commons
Shrouded in an aura of mystery, the second highest peak in the Świętokrzyskie Mountains stands gentle and proud above the landscape. Photo: Yayek via Wikimedia Commons

A mountain shrouded in mystery


For centuries, Łysa Góra—also known as Święty Krzyż—has been whispered about in folklore.

Long before Christianity took root, this peak was a holy site for the Slavs, where deities were worshipped, temples were built, and rituals were performed.

Legends tell of witches’ sabbaths, where supernatural gatherings took place on the northern slopes, shrouded in the eerie glow of the moon.

While these tales may seem like folklore, archaeological discoveries add weight to the mountain’s mystical reputation—most notably, a two-kilometer-long stone rampart, hinting at intense pagan activity as far back as the 9th century.
According to folklore, Łysa Góra was a gathering place for witches who held mystical sabbaths on the northern slopes.  Photo via SWIETOKRZYSKIE on facebook
According to folklore, Łysa Góra was a gathering place for witches who held mystical sabbaths on the northern slopes. Photo via SWIETOKRZYSKIE on facebook

The Benedictine monastery: a sanctuary in the clouds


Despite its pagan roots, it was the establishment of the Benedictine Monastery of Święty Krzyż in the early 12th century that cemented Łysa Góra’s status as a spiritual stronghold. Believed to have been founded by King Bolesław III Krzywousty, this monastery became Poland’s oldest sanctuary and a beacon for pilgrims.

At the heart of its reverence lies an extraordinary relic—a fragment of the True Cross, upon which Jesus was crucified. According to legend, Hungarian prince Emeric found himself lost in the surrounding forests. Guided by a divine vision, he left his most precious possession—the Holy Cross relic—as an offering of gratitude.

Today, this sacred relic is housed in a Baroque chapel, adorned with frescoes that tell its remarkable story.

Pilgrims still flock here, drawn by faith and the allure of a place steeped in centuries of devotion.
The monastery’s most revered treasure is the Relics of the True Cross  Paweł Cieśla via Wikimedia Commons
The monastery’s most revered treasure is the Relics of the True Cross Paweł Cieśla via Wikimedia Commons

Architectural marvels


Though ravaged by wars, fires, and political upheavals, the monastery has endured. Originally built in the Romanesque style, it has undergone multiple transformations, now standing as a Classicist masterpiece.

The 15th-century cloister, once the heartbeat of monastic life, still proudly displays the coats of arms of noble benefactors—silent witnesses to the monastery’s long and prestigious history.

The crypt of Jeremi Wiśniowiecki: a warrior’s resting place


For history buffs, the monastery’s crypt holds a fascinating secret: the mummified remains of Prince Jeremi Wiśniowiecki. Known for his ruthless military strategy during the Khmelnytsky Uprising (1648–1657), he was one of the fiercest defenders of the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth.

His remains rest in eerie silence beneath the monastery, drawing curious visitors eager to step back into a turbulent chapter of Poland’s past.
The crypt holds the mummified remains of Prince Jeremi Wiśniowiecki. Photo via Wikimedia Commons.
The crypt holds the mummified remains of Prince Jeremi Wiśniowiecki. Photo via Wikimedia Commons.

From monastery to prison: A darker chapter


Despite its spiritual significance, Święty Krzyż has also witnessed darker days. Following Poland’s partitions, the monastery was seized by the authorities in 1819 and repurposed into a correctional facility for delinquent priests—a concept that, some might argue, could still find relevance today.

By 1852, it had transformed yet again, this time into a full-fledged prison. From 1918 onwards, it became one of Poland’s harshest penitentiaries, housing infamous inmates, including the controversial Stepan Bandera.
Święty Krzyż prison was considered the harshest prison in Poland. Unknown author via Wikimedia Commons
Święty Krzyż prison was considered the harshest prison in Poland. Unknown author via Wikimedia Commons

Nature’s masterpiece: the wild beauty of Łysa Góra


Beyond its historical and mystical allure, Łysa Góra is a natural wonder. No visit is complete without scaling the monastery’s observation tower. Once destroyed in 1914 by Austrian forces, it was painstakingly rebuilt a century later, now standing 35 meters high, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Świętokrzyski National Park.

On clear days, the distant Tatra Mountains can be seen on the horizon—a truly magical sight.

One of the most distinctive features of the mountain is the gołoborze, an otherworldly expanse of quartzite rock fields, sculpted over millennia by frost weathering. Stark, treeless, and seemingly out of place, this landscape only adds to Łysa Góra’s mystical aura.
Gołoborze is an extensive rocky debris field unique to the Świętokrzyskie region. Photo: Jakub Hałun via Wikimedia Commons
Gołoborze is an extensive rocky debris field unique to the Świętokrzyskie region. Photo: Jakub Hałun via Wikimedia Commons

A timeless adventure awaits


Whether you come for the history, the legends, or the awe-inspiring landscapes, Łysa Góra promises an adventure like no other.

Standing atop this legendary peak, surrounded by whispers of the past and the breathtaking beauty of Poland’s oldest mountains, it’s easy to see why Łysa Góra has captivated generations.

So, lace up your boots, follow the ancient paths, and step into the mystery of a place where the Holy Cross stands tall, where witches once danced, and where history continues to echo through the wind.
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