Warsaw, a city where history and modernity intertwine, harbors hidden architectural gems that whisper tales of its vibrant past.
Among these treasures are Passage Italia and the quaint Dollhouse on Hoża Street. These sites, though lesser-known, are must-visit locations when you are in Warsaw.
Hidden in the second row of buildings at 23/25 Nowy Świat Street, Passage Italia — although today only imagination can restore the former splendor of this place — still remains, in a way, a monument to its past glory and Warsaw’s interwar period—a time of cultural flourishing and architectural innovation.
Passage Italia: a glimpse into Warsaw's cosmopolitan past
Hidden in the second row of buildings at 23/25 Nowy Świat Street, Passage Italia — although today only imagination can restore the former splendor of this place — still remains, in a way, a monument to its past glory and Warsaw’s interwar period—a time of cultural flourishing and architectural innovation.
The story begins in 1926 when Alfredo Frassati, the founder of the Italian newspaper La Stampa and father of blessed Pier Giorgio Frassati, acquired two adjacent buildings as a wedding gift for his daughter, Luciana Frassati-Gawrońska, who was married to Polish diplomat Jan Gawroński.
Recognizing the potential of this prime location, Frassati envisioned a sophisticated venue that would sum up the elegance of European capitals.
In the courtyard of these buildings, Frassati commissioned the construction of a grand structure, assigning it the address 23/25 Nowy Świat.
Recognizing the potential of this prime location, Frassati envisioned a sophisticated venue that would sum up the elegance of European capitals.
In the courtyard of these buildings, Frassati commissioned the construction of a grand structure, assigning it the address 23/25 Nowy Świat.
The centerpiece was a spacious corridor named Passage Italia, designed to emulate the charm of European galleries. This passageway connected Nowy Świat with Chmielna Street, offering pedestrians a sheltered promenade adorned with boutique shops and cafes.
The architectural design, attributed to Juliusz Nagórski, featured modernist elements with geometric skylights that bathed the interior in natural light.
The crown jewel of Passage Italia was Café Italia, which opened in 1926. This establishment was not merely a café but a cultural hub, boasting several rooms, each exuding a distinct ambiance.
The architectural design, attributed to Juliusz Nagórski, featured modernist elements with geometric skylights that bathed the interior in natural light.
The crown jewel of Passage Italia was Café Italia, which opened in 1926. This establishment was not merely a café but a cultural hub, boasting several rooms, each exuding a distinct ambiance.
Notably, a Moorish-style room offered visitors authentic Turkish coffee, transporting them to distant lands through its intricate décor. The café quickly became a rendezvous point for Warsaw's elite, artists, and intellectuals.
In early 1927, the café resonated with the melodies of Fred Melodyst, a multifaceted musician passionate about jazz. He assembled a band of prime Jazz musicians in Warsaw, like Jerzy Rosner on piano and Michał Didyk on trumpet.
Their performances introduced Warsaw to the infectious rhythms of jazz, marking Café Italia as a pioneer in the city's musical landscape.
In early 1927, the café resonated with the melodies of Fred Melodyst, a multifaceted musician passionate about jazz. He assembled a band of prime Jazz musicians in Warsaw, like Jerzy Rosner on piano and Michał Didyk on trumpet.
Their performances introduced Warsaw to the infectious rhythms of jazz, marking Café Italia as a pioneer in the city's musical landscape.
Despite its initial success and Frassati's substantial investment, Café Italia faced financial challenges, leading to its closure after a few years.
The space underwent several transformations: it housed a cinema, and in the early 1930s, the basement was converted into the Bodega wine cellar and nightclub.
Bodega, with its Spanish tavern-inspired design, became an exclusive haunt for artists and entrepreneurs, offering an intimate setting where Warsaw's bohemian spirit thrived.
By the late 1930s, the venue saw the emergence of Café Swann, replacing the former Café Milano.
The space underwent several transformations: it housed a cinema, and in the early 1930s, the basement was converted into the Bodega wine cellar and nightclub.
Bodega, with its Spanish tavern-inspired design, became an exclusive haunt for artists and entrepreneurs, offering an intimate setting where Warsaw's bohemian spirit thrived.
By the late 1930s, the venue saw the emergence of Café Swann, replacing the former Café Milano.
Named in homage to Marcel Proust's novel, Swann exuded a mysterious allure with its dim lighting and plush seating. It became a sanctuary for artists and thinkers, fostering an environment where creativity flourished.
During World War II, Café Swann played a discreet yet significant role, frequented by members of the Polish underground resistance. The establishment's doormen were rumored to be affiliated with the Home Army, adding layers of intrigue to its storied walls.
During World War II, Café Swann played a discreet yet significant role, frequented by members of the Polish underground resistance. The establishment's doormen were rumored to be affiliated with the Home Army, adding layers of intrigue to its storied walls.
A fairytale amidst urbanity
Tucked away in the courtyard of 70 Hoża Street lies a building that seems plucked from the pages of a storybook. Affectionately known as the "Dollhouse" or the "House of Baba Yaga," this charming edifice captivates all who stumble upon it.
Constructed in 1910, the building's quaint architecture stands in stark contrast to the towering tenements that envelop it, creating a whimsical oasis in the heart of Warsaw.
The Dollhouse's origins are rooted in industry; it initially served as the chemical dyeing factory of Hipolit Majewski, operating from 1910 to 1937. Majewski, who also owned a cosmetics and soap factory, utilized this space to dye and refine woolen fabrics.
The building's design is distinctive: built from raw, unplastered brick, it features a single floor and an attic divided into three sections, each adorned with its own gabled roof and windows.
This unique configuration lends the structure its dollhouse-like appearance, enchanting visitors with its fairy-tale charm.
The building's design is distinctive: built from raw, unplastered brick, it features a single floor and an attic divided into three sections, each adorned with its own gabled roof and windows.
This unique configuration lends the structure its dollhouse-like appearance, enchanting visitors with its fairy-tale charm.
Over the decades, as Warsaw's cityscape evolved, the Dollhouse found itself nestled amidst much taller buildings, further accentuating its diminutive stature.
The unique result of this marriage between a small, almost rural-looking house and tall tenement buildings is an unnaturally high chimney, which must have been built after the "Dollhouse" was enclosed in the courtyard of the multi-storey buildings.
The chimney, still visible today, is "stuck" to the wall of one of them and appears to be at least twice as tall as the house itself.
The unique result of this marriage between a small, almost rural-looking house and tall tenement buildings is an unnaturally high chimney, which must have been built after the "Dollhouse" was enclosed in the courtyard of the multi-storey buildings.
The chimney, still visible today, is "stuck" to the wall of one of them and appears to be at least twice as tall as the house itself.
Remarkably, it survived the ravages of World War II unscathed, a testament to its resilience and the affection it garnered from the community. Post-war, the building housed the "Women's Work and Services Cooperative," offering laundry and cleaning services.
In recent years, it has become home to a Law Firm but now it looks empty with no name on it, just an icon of Holy Mary with a Child.
In recent years, it has become home to a Law Firm but now it looks empty with no name on it, just an icon of Holy Mary with a Child.
Legends and lore: the soul of Warsaw
Both Passage Italia and the Dollhouse are steeped in narratives that transcend their physical structures. Passage Italia, for instance, is rumored to have been a clandestine meeting spot for spies and resistance fighters during tumultuous times, with its labyrinthine corridors offering discreet passage and refuge.
The Dollhouse, with its storybook façade, has inspired local legends of a reclusive artist who once resided there, crafting marionettes that were said to come to life under the moonlight.
These tales, woven into the fabric of Warsaw's history, enrich the city's cultural tapestry, offering glimpses into the lives and imaginations of its inhabitants. They remind us that beyond the grand boulevards and historic landmarks, Warsaw's true essence lies in its hidden corners and the stories they hold.
As Warsaw continues to grow and evolve, sites like Passage Italia and the Dollhouse serve as vital links to the city's past. They are reminders that history isn't always found in museums or monuments—sometimes, it's hidden behind iron gates or down quiet alleyways.
Preserving these spaces isn’t just about restoring old buildings; it’s about honoring the lives, ideas, and art that once pulsed through them.
Embrace of past and future
As Warsaw continues to grow and evolve, sites like Passage Italia and the Dollhouse serve as vital links to the city's past. They are reminders that history isn't always found in museums or monuments—sometimes, it's hidden behind iron gates or down quiet alleyways.
Preserving these spaces isn’t just about restoring old buildings; it’s about honoring the lives, ideas, and art that once pulsed through them.
For travelers and locals alike, taking the time to explore these forgotten corners of Warsaw can be a revelatory experience. It’s a chance to step off the beaten path, to pause and listen closely to the stories etched into brick and stone.
In doing so, we not only keep these places alive but also carry forward the spirit of a city that has always found ways to reinvent itself, without forgetting where it came from.
In doing so, we not only keep these places alive but also carry forward the spirit of a city that has always found ways to reinvent itself, without forgetting where it came from.
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