The Russian troops who once occupied its streets now attack from across the Dnipro, sending drones and shells in what residents now call a “human safari.” Streets once filled with flags and are now pitted with craters. A recent visit by Angelina Jolie reminded people they haven’t been forgotten, but daily explosions and drone strikes have turned Kherson — once a proud port of 280,000 — into a city living on the edge once again.