On February 17, 1980, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki made history as the first climbers to summit Mount Everest during the winter.
Their feat, led by the legendary Andrzej Zawada, shattered records and set a new benchmark for high-altitude climbing.
Their success was unique. After Cichy and Wielicki, only five climbers—three Japanese and two Koreans—would repeat this feat, with the last winter ascent occurring in 1993.
The roots of Polish Himalayan mountaineering date back to the early 20th century. The fascination with the world’s highest mountains, sparked by British attempts to conquer Everest, also reached Poland. One of the pioneers of Polish Himalayan expeditions was Warsaw-based climber Adam Karpiński.
In 1939, his expedition achieved a significant milestone by summiting Nanda Devi East (7,434 m) in the Himalayas. This achievement was monumental, considering the limited resources and geopolitical challenges of the time.
However, the outbreak of World War II and the long occupation of Poland put further Himalayan expeditions on hold for several decades.
The first route to the summit
The roots of Polish Himalayan mountaineering date back to the early 20th century. The fascination with the world’s highest mountains, sparked by British attempts to conquer Everest, also reached Poland. One of the pioneers of Polish Himalayan expeditions was Warsaw-based climber Adam Karpiński.
In 1939, his expedition achieved a significant milestone by summiting Nanda Devi East (7,434 m) in the Himalayas. This achievement was monumental, considering the limited resources and geopolitical challenges of the time.
However, the outbreak of World War II and the long occupation of Poland put further Himalayan expeditions on hold for several decades.
Just before the outbreak of World War II, a group of Polish climbers accomplished one of the most spectacular feats of their time. On July 2, 1939, Jakub Bujak and Janusz Klarner reached the summit of Nanda Devi East, writing an impressive chapter in both Polish and global mountaineering history.
The joy in the camp was short-lived. Two weeks later, a massive avalanche buried alive the remaining members of the expedition, Stefan Bernadzikiewicz and Adam Karpiński, the father of Polish Himalayan climbing.
Devastated, their comrades set out on the return journey. Onboard a ship back to Europe, they learned of Germany’s invasion of Poland.
Janusz Klarner joined the front lines and later became part of the Polish resistance (Home Army), while Jakub Bujak made a dramatic escape to Britain, where he worked on secret military projects.
Just as it seemed they might find a place in the post-war world, both mysteriously vanished without a trace. It was as if the rumors of a curse afflicting those who conquered Nanda Devi held some truth…
Thus began the triumphant and tragic journey of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, which would later earn worldwide acclaim.
Devastated, their comrades set out on the return journey. Onboard a ship back to Europe, they learned of Germany’s invasion of Poland.
Janusz Klarner joined the front lines and later became part of the Polish resistance (Home Army), while Jakub Bujak made a dramatic escape to Britain, where he worked on secret military projects.
Just as it seemed they might find a place in the post-war world, both mysteriously vanished without a trace. It was as if the rumors of a curse afflicting those who conquered Nanda Devi held some truth…
Thus began the triumphant and tragic journey of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, which would later earn worldwide acclaim.
The Golden Era: 1970s-80s
For nearly two decades—the 1970s and 1980s—Himalayan climbing became a Polish specialty. During this time, a new trend emerged in the sport: seeking out uncharted, challenging routes on high-altitude walls, attempting winter ascents and refining climbing style by foregoing supplemental oxygen.
Winter Himalayan climbing was initially dominated by Poles. In addition to Everest, Polish climbers achieved the first winter ascents of seven other 8,000-meter peaks: Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Annapurna and Shishapangma.
The most famous Polish Himalayan climbers include Jerzy Kukuczka and Wanda Rutkiewicz.
The legend of Jerzy Kukuczka
One of the most iconic figures of this era was Jerzy Kukuczka. Born in 1948 in Katowice, his mountaineering career was simply legendary. In less than eight years, he became the second person in history to climb all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks.
What set Kukuczka apart was not just the speed of his ascents but also his style and route choices. He pioneered new paths and undertook climbs during the harsh winter months, showcasing his unparalleled skills and perseverance.
Sadly, his life was cut short in 1989 during an ambitious attempt on the unclimbed south face of Lhotse, where he remains buried in the icy gorge to this day. However, his legacy continues to inspire climbers worldwide.
Sadly, his life was cut short in 1989 during an ambitious attempt on the unclimbed south face of Lhotse, where he remains buried in the icy gorge to this day. However, his legacy continues to inspire climbers worldwide.
Wanda Rutkiewicz: a trailblazing pioneer
Another outstanding figure was Wanda Rutkiewicz, a pioneer in women’s alpinism. On October 16, 1978, she made history as the first European woman and the third woman in the world to summit Mount Everest.
On the same day, Karol Wojtyła was elected Pope. When they met during his visit to Poland a year later, he remarked, “It was God's will that on the same day, we both ascended so high.” She gifted the Pope a stone from the Everest summit.
Her pioneering spirit did not stop there. In 1986, she became the first woman to conquer K2. Rutkiewicz’s ambitious project, “Caravan of Dreams,” aimed to make her the first woman to climb all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks.
Sadly, her quest ended in 1992 when she disappeared while ascending Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), a mountain said to “dislike women,” as it claimed several elite female climbers.
The exact circumstances of her death remain a mystery. Fellow climber Krzysztof Wielicki speculated that she succumbed to exhaustion and may have slipped from the ridge. During her 30-year career, she had many close brushes with death, including a fall from 18 meters while rock climbing and surviving an avalanche on Aconcagua.
Rutkiewicz once said: “High-altitude climbing brings both physical and mental suffering. At the same time, it gives a sense of self-worth, tests character and fulfills a need for risk—which I do not like, but without which I cannot live. The contact with nature, so fierce (because mountains do not like to be trampled), the incredible intellectual and aesthetic experiences one has up there—all of this is necessary for my life. Climbing is my form of creativity.”
Another luminary of this golden era is Krzysztof Wielicki. Known for his winter ascents, he achieved the first-ever winter summits of Mount Everest (1980), Kangchenjunga (1986) and Lhotse (1988).
His Everest ascent with Leszek Cichy on February 17, 1980, remains an unparalleled feat of audacity. Wielicki also led various expeditions, including attempts on K2 in winter.
Sadly, her quest ended in 1992 when she disappeared while ascending Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), a mountain said to “dislike women,” as it claimed several elite female climbers.
The exact circumstances of her death remain a mystery. Fellow climber Krzysztof Wielicki speculated that she succumbed to exhaustion and may have slipped from the ridge. During her 30-year career, she had many close brushes with death, including a fall from 18 meters while rock climbing and surviving an avalanche on Aconcagua.
Rutkiewicz once said: “High-altitude climbing brings both physical and mental suffering. At the same time, it gives a sense of self-worth, tests character and fulfills a need for risk—which I do not like, but without which I cannot live. The contact with nature, so fierce (because mountains do not like to be trampled), the incredible intellectual and aesthetic experiences one has up there—all of this is necessary for my life. Climbing is my form of creativity.”
Krzysztof Wielicki: master of winter ascents
Another luminary of this golden era is Krzysztof Wielicki. Known for his winter ascents, he achieved the first-ever winter summits of Mount Everest (1980), Kangchenjunga (1986) and Lhotse (1988).
His Everest ascent with Leszek Cichy on February 17, 1980, remains an unparalleled feat of audacity. Wielicki also led various expeditions, including attempts on K2 in winter.
A lasting legacy
The legacy of the “Ice Warriors” paved the way for a new generation of Polish climbers, who continue to push the limits of alpinism.
Adam Bielecki, born in 1983, became the youngest person to summit Khan Tengri in alpine style at 17. His notable achievements include the first winter ascents of Gasherbrum I (2012) and Broad Peak (2013).
Andrzej Bargiel gained global recognition not just for his climbs but also for his descents. In 2018, he made history with the first-ever ski descent from K2, demonstrating a fusion of mountaineering and skiing expertise.
Polish climbers’ contributions to the sport go beyond their ascents; their accomplishments have become a national pride, fueling future generations of adventurers. Through books, films and exhibitions, the story of Polish Himalayan mountaineering continues to inspire.
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