This week, TVP World’s Michał Zdanowski continues his captivating journey through Poland's mysterious Trail of the Eagles’ Nests, where nestled among the limestone hills and forests are remarkable sites such as the Błędowska Desert, the Ryczów Watchtower, Pilcza and Ogrodzieniec castles, and the reconstructed hill fort of Góra Birów.
Błędowska Desert: The Polish Sahara
Stretching across 33 square kilometers, and found on the border of the Silesian and Olkusz Uplands, the Błędowska Desert is a natural phenomenon unparalleled in Central Europe. This expanse of shifting sands, often called the Polish Sahara, owes its existence to both glacial history and human activity.
During the 13th century, deforestation and mining operations near Olkusz disrupted the natural balance, transforming what was once a forested area into a desert.
However, local legend tells a different story. According to folklore, miners angered a devil by digging too deep and stealing silver from his domain. Enraged, the devil attempted to bury the mines with sand from the Baltic Sea, but a sack he carried snagged on a church in Błędów caused the sand to spill, forming the desert.
Over the centuries, the desert has served many purposes, including as a military training ground during both World Wars—during WWII, Field Marshall Erwin Rommel trained his Afrika Korps here before setting off to battle the British in the deserts of Northern Africa.
Today, though, swathes of the sandy terrain have been reclaimed by encroaching vegetation, leading to ecological preservation efforts. Even so, visitors can still marvel at the open dunes near Klucze and enjoy panoramic views from Czubatka Hill or the Róża Wiatrów observation deck.
Over the centuries, the desert has served many purposes, including as a military training ground during both World Wars—during WWII, Field Marshall Erwin Rommel trained his Afrika Korps here before setting off to battle the British in the deserts of Northern Africa.
Today, though, swathes of the sandy terrain have been reclaimed by encroaching vegetation, leading to ecological preservation efforts. Even so, visitors can still marvel at the open dunes near Klucze and enjoy panoramic views from Czubatka Hill or the Róża Wiatrów observation deck.
Ryczów Watchtower: guardian of the Uplands
Perched on an inaccessible limestone rock, the Ryczów Watchtower is a hidden treasure of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland. Likely built during the reign of King Casimir the Great in the late 14th century, this modest yet strategic fortification was part of a defensive chain that protected Poland’s southwestern borders.
Though time and neglect have reduced the watchtower to ruins, its significance is not forgotten. The remnants of stone walls and earth embankments hint at its past as a formidable structure, accessible only by wooden bridges or ropes.
Once part of a system that included, among other strongholds, castles in Ogrodzieniec and Smoleń Castle, the Ryczów Watchtower played a crucial role in deterring invasions and guarding trade routes.
Once part of a system that included, among other strongholds, castles in Ogrodzieniec and Smoleń Castle, the Ryczów Watchtower played a crucial role in deterring invasions and guarding trade routes.
Visitors can reach the site via the blue-marked Trail of Jurassic Strongholds, which winds its way through picturesque limestone landscapes. The climb to the ruins is challenging but rewarding, offering an enthralling glimpse into Poland’s lesser-known history.
Standing atop a 486-meter-high limestone hill, Castle Pilcza in Smoleń is a remarkable relic of Poland’s medieval past. Built in the mid-14th century by the powerful Topór family, the castle was both a defensive stronghold and a seat of cultural influence.
Castle Pilcza in Smoleń: a fortress of power and prestige
Standing atop a 486-meter-high limestone hill, Castle Pilcza in Smoleń is a remarkable relic of Poland’s medieval past. Built in the mid-14th century by the powerful Topór family, the castle was both a defensive stronghold and a seat of cultural influence.
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Reconstruction of the castle from the 16th century from the south side, drawing by A.Wagner Castle Hill with the ruins of Pilcza Castle, postcards from the First World War
During its prime, the castle was home to Elżbieta of Pilcza, one of the wealthiest women in Poland, whose marriage to King Władysław Jagiełło brought the estate royal prestige. Over the centuries, Castle Pilcza saw numerous conflicts and was destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in 1655.
By the 19th century, the castle had fallen into ruin, but subsequent archaeological discoveries have shed light on its storied past, uncovering artifacts ranging from medieval ceramics to a silver denarius of King Louis I of Hungary.
Restoration efforts completed in 2016 have transformed the site into a must-visit destination, where visitors can explore the keep, baileys, and panoramic views of the surrounding Jura hills.
By the 19th century, the castle had fallen into ruin, but subsequent archaeological discoveries have shed light on its storied past, uncovering artifacts ranging from medieval ceramics to a silver denarius of King Louis I of Hungary.
Restoration efforts completed in 2016 have transformed the site into a must-visit destination, where visitors can explore the keep, baileys, and panoramic views of the surrounding Jura hills.
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Restored to permanent ruin castle lure history buffs with striking vistas form the main keep. Photo: Gswito via wikimedia commons
Ogrodzieniec Castle: a jewel of the Jura and a star of the screen
Rising majestically atop the highest hill in the Jura region at 515 meters above sea level, Ogrodzieniec Castle is one of Poland’s most breathtaking and iconic medieval ruins.
Situated in the picturesque village of Podzamcze, this formidable fortress illustrates the ingenuity of medieval builders who seamlessly integrated its structure into the rugged limestone landscape.
Often referred to as the "small Wawel" due to its grandeur and architectural sophistication, the castle has captivated the imagination of visitors for centuries and even found its place in popular culture as a filming location.
The origins of Ogrodzieniec Castle date back to the 12th century, when a wooden stronghold stood on the site, only to be destroyed during the Tatar invasions of 1241.
In the 14th century, King Casimir the Great commissioned a stone Gothic castle as part of a network of fortifications to protect Poland’s southwestern border.
Over the centuries, the castle passed into the hands of various noble families, including the Boners and Firlejs, who transformed it into a Renaissance masterpiece.
A fortress of splendor and struggle
The origins of Ogrodzieniec Castle date back to the 12th century, when a wooden stronghold stood on the site, only to be destroyed during the Tatar invasions of 1241.
In the 14th century, King Casimir the Great commissioned a stone Gothic castle as part of a network of fortifications to protect Poland’s southwestern border.
Over the centuries, the castle passed into the hands of various noble families, including the Boners and Firlejs, who transformed it into a Renaissance masterpiece.
The Firlej family left a lasting mark on Ogrodzieniec Castle, expanding its wings, adding ornamental arcades, and fortifying it against sieges. Its imposing towers, dry moats, and strategic position made it a daunting stronghold, but various battles—most notably during the Swedish Deluge in 1655—left the castle heavily damaged.
By the 18th century, it had fallen into ruin, with locals using its stones as building materials. Despite this decline, the castle has retained its mystique and now attracts tourists and historians in droves.
By the 18th century, it had fallen into ruin, with locals using its stones as building materials. Despite this decline, the castle has retained its mystique and now attracts tourists and historians in droves.
Architectural brilliance amid limestone cliffs
Ogrodzieniec Castle is renowned for the manner in which it seems to naturally harmonize with the surrounding rocky terrain. Spanning 3.5 hectares, the castle complex comprises the upper castle and an outer ward.
The upper castle housed luxurious living quarters, an armory, and observation towers, while the outer ward contained stables, workshops and even a brewery.
The castle’s Gothic core reflects its origins as a defensive structure, while later Renaissance additions introduced a touch of refinement.
Key architectural features include the Executioners’ Tower, known for its medieval crenellations, and the Credence Tower, which offers striking views of the surrounding Jura region.
The "Hen’s Foot" southern wing, carved into the limestone rock, housed residential chambers and defensive elements. Decorative arcades, stone galleries, and courtyards that were once utilized to host tournaments and house aviaries underscore the castle’s cultural importance in its prime.
The surrounding limestone formations, such as the Three Sisters rock formation, add to the castle’s dramatic appearance. These natural outcrops were skillfully integrated into the outer walls, blending human craftsmanship with geological beauty.
The surrounding limestone formations, such as the Three Sisters rock formation, add to the castle’s dramatic appearance. These natural outcrops were skillfully integrated into the outer walls, blending human craftsmanship with geological beauty.
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Photo promotional materials of Ogrodzieniec castle
Ogrodzieniec Castle in film and pop culture
While Ogrodzieniec Castle is deeply rooted in Poland’s historical and cultural heritage, its hauntingly beautiful ruins have also captured the imagination of filmmakers and producers worldwide.
The castle has been featured in numerous productions, but its most prominent appearance came in Netflix’s hit series The Witcher.
In the first season of The Witcher, Ogrodzieniec Castle served as the backdrop for the epic scene of battle at Sodden Hill. Its towering limestone walls and eerie ruins provided the perfect setting for the climactic fight between Mages of the North and the Nilfgaardian forces.
Beyond The Witcher, Ogrodzieniec Castle has also appeared in several Polish films and historical documentaries, earning its reputation as a cinematic icon. Its striking silhouette against the Jura hills makes it an ideal setting for tales of knights, battles and legends.
Beyond The Witcher, Ogrodzieniec Castle has also appeared in several Polish films and historical documentaries, earning its reputation as a cinematic icon. Its striking silhouette against the Jura hills makes it an ideal setting for tales of knights, battles and legends.
A Cultural and Recreational Hub
Today, Ogrodzieniec Castle is far more than a historical monument and doubles as a vibrant hub of cultural activity.
From medieval reenactments and ghost tours to concerts and hot-air balloon festivals, the castle offers a rich program of events throughout the year.
One of the most popular attractions is the International Knight Tournament, where visitors can experience the thrill of medieval combat and festivities.
The castle is also a major stop along the Trail of the Eagles’ Nests, a network of fortresses that stretches across the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland. Its accessibility from hiking and cycling trails makes it a favorite destination for outdoor enthusiasts.
An Enchanted Legacy
Its breathtaking ruins, steeped in history, invite visitors to step into a world of knights and castles, battles and betrayals, and legends that transcend time.
One of the most chilling tells a tale of the cruel and greedy castellan Stanisław Warszycki, it recounts his merciless treatment of servants, wives, and even his own daughter.
After his death, locals believed he returned as a giant black dog, chained and cursed to guard his hidden treasures.
On moonlit nights, this spectral beast is said to haunt the castle ruins, dragging a rattling three-meter-long chain.
While the castle attracts visitors by day, its eerie nighttime reputation keeps most people away, with many claiming to have seen or heard the ghostly dog.
For history buffs, fans of fantasy, or anyone seeking an unforgettable journey, Ogrodzieniec Castle stands as a testament to Poland’s enduring beauty and its role as a cultural treasure on the global stage.
Just a short distance from Ogrodzieniec Castle lies the reconstructed Góra Birów Hillfort, a testament to Poland’s early history. Archaeological excavations have uncovered layers of settlements dating back to the late Neolithic period, including artifacts from Bronze Age tribes, Germanic Vandals and Slavic communities.
Góra Birów Hillfort: A Journey Through Time
Just a short distance from Ogrodzieniec Castle lies the reconstructed Góra Birów Hillfort, a testament to Poland’s early history. Archaeological excavations have uncovered layers of settlements dating back to the late Neolithic period, including artifacts from Bronze Age tribes, Germanic Vandals and Slavic communities.
During the medieval era, the hillfort served as a defensive outpost under Prince Władysław Łokietek, guarding the Polish-Czech border. Destroyed in the 14th century, it was abandoned until modern reconstruction efforts brought it back to life in 2018.
Visitors can now explore fortified ramparts, gate towers, and a chieftain’s hut, all of which allow an insight into the daily lives and military practices of Poland’s early inhabitants.
Guided tours and interactive exhibitions provide an immersive experience, while the surrounding limestone caves and fossils add a natural dimension to this historical treasure.
Visitors can now explore fortified ramparts, gate towers, and a chieftain’s hut, all of which allow an insight into the daily lives and military practices of Poland’s early inhabitants.
Guided tours and interactive exhibitions provide an immersive experience, while the surrounding limestone caves and fossils add a natural dimension to this historical treasure.
Discovering Poland’s Hidden Past
From the shifting sands of the Błędowska Desert to the towering ruins of Ogrodzieniec Castle and the ancient fortifications of Góra Birów, Poland’s Jura region offers an unparalleled journey through time.
These sites, steeped in legend and history, invite visitors to uncover the stories of kings, knights and settlers who shaped this remarkable landscape.
Next weekend, we will journey even further along the Trail to explore more striking castles, watchtowers and natural landscapes to reach the last of the major castles on our Trail of Eagles’ Nests.
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